Don't forget your wet weather gear

If you visit Provence and the coast in late Autumn, there is normally a great deal of pleasantly warm sunshine.... Remember, whatever you do, don't forget to pack your wet weather gear.

2 million years of erosion

View at Cuckmere Haven looking west in the direction of Seaford Head. With the cliffs at this point rising steeply, two million years of erosion looks quite dramatic.

Along this stretch of coastline there is plenty to see. You can find breeding sites for Fulmers and Kittiwakes. And at Seaford Head itself, there is a Stone Age hill fort, half of which has fallen into the sea. Thank goodness at least on this small stretch of coast, the cliffs have been left alone to remain perhaps the most natural in the country.

Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) on the South Downs

When walking and sketching on the South Downs, I can't help being drawn by the shapes and texture of hawthorn trees as they lean eastwards to escape the sculptural effect of the prevailing winds. Lone trees in silhouette against the horizon have a strange beauty, often echoing the soft curves of the downs.


Close up, the hawthorn appears gnarled, twisted and impenetrable. In winter when viewed from a distance, clumps of hawthorn together with other varieties form thickets creating abstract patterns of raw umber, set off against patches of green cropped turf and blue sky (see the photo below).


It is already November and soon I can look forward to the sprinkle of white blossom from the blackthorn in March.


Beware the oak-
It courts the stroke,
Beware the ash-
It courts the flash,
Creep under the thorn-
It will save you from harm.

Atonement and WWII invasion defences

Cuckmere Haven in the Seven Sisters Country Park really is a haven. It remains one of the few unspoilt beaches along the south coast of England. It must look now, just as it did at the turn of the last century. What helps keep it this way is you have to take the trouble to walk there. It’s not far from a car park, but none the less, effort is required.

The classic view looking towards the Seven Sisters contains the row of cottages close to the cliff edge, and can be seen in the recent film Atonement.

Sea lion, (the code word for the German Invasion in WWII) was centred on the South Coast of England. If you look a little closer around the Haven you will come across several remains of the WWII coastal defences. The rough sketch above illustrates one of the remaining concrete pillboxes and ‘Dragon’s Teeth’ tank obstacles looking much as they were in 1940.

Brecon Beacons — Pen y Fan & Corn Du

Most often, I prefer mild settled weather, but the Brecon Beacons are an exception to my rule. Nothing can beat the atmosphere in autumn generated when the clouds are running low and just shroud the mountain tops in white billowing cloud. Whilst in contrast, dark grey shadows on the landscape are punctured by pools of bright watery sunlight.

Mid Wales offers a spectacular and diverse landscape that is for me at its most impressive in changeable autumn weather.

Above, are quick, small sketches, attempting to capture an ever-changing view. But I am not fast enough, every time I look up from my sketchbook, nature has swiftly modified the scene.

Sketching — Rhonda valleys provide great inspiration

It is a shame, but a weekend away in Wales visiting friends, doesn't leave much time to get stuck into drawing.

Why does the Rhonda valley always provide me with great inspiration? The answer lies in the stark contrast between the bottom of the valley, all hustle and bustle, with strong patterns made by uniformed rows of houses, and the mountains, peaceful and tranquil, their natural unevenness broken only occasionally by man made features.

From my friend’s house in Porth, just 10 minutes climb and you are in a different world altogether. You could be in the Cairngorms. From many angles, you would never know there was anything but open countryside for miles and miles.

Playing 'dogems' on the South Downs

If you want a walk with a great view. Head out from the Bo Peep car park on the South Downs, near Alfriston, Sussex. From the car park, go east to the top of the hill and you come to the view shown in the sketch. You can then descend quickly down towards Alfriston. And if you want a fine view all day, just head west towards Lewes.


Along this stretch of the Downs you often see groups of Hang and Para-gliders soaring and weaving in and out of each other's way, making a striking contrast with the scenery.

Pick the right time of day to walk (afternoon), and you won't have to play 'dodgems' with mountain bikers every few minutes. Why is it that so many bikers think that as a walker, you have eyes in the back of your head, can feel the slightest vibration through the soles of your hiking boots, or smell the distinctive odor of a sweaty biker warning you in advance of their approach.


It seems I have issues with bikers! Well, actually I have, and this I think is due to so many near misses. Although lots do wiz by with a courteous greeting, many fail to give a fair warning of their approach from behind and especially down hill.

Anyway, I continue to risk my life because the super views, wild life and fresh air make it so worth while.

St They, near Audierne in Finistère

This is a sketch of a tiny chapel near Plouhinec Audierne. It is hidden in a peaceful sheltered spot along side a path to the coast. There always seems to be something significant about these religious sites. In this case it is a 'fontaine' and fresh water stream. If you enjoy walking, the area around Cap Sizun is full of paths and small chapels, many hidden away in quite spots such as this.

Sunny September days on the South Coast

The past few weekends have offered up some spectacular weather. I have made the most of this walking on the South coast and the Downs.

The small sketches are taken from my note book and show:

The Chattri Memorial, a wonderful spot set high on the downs looking south towards Brighton. The memorial was erected on the site of the funeral pyre where Hindus and Sikhs soldiers were cremated after having died in Brighton hospitals as a result of wounds received in the First World War.

St Peter's Church Southease (note the unusual round Spire), also known I believe as Southern Brushwood Land, or Sueise, and is mentioned in the Charter of King Edgar 996 AD. Southease is a wonderful spot situated between Lewes and Newhaven on the Western side of the river Ouse. I must return there and find a more suitable angle and make a better, more detailed drawing of the church. 
If you want a good walk, then set out from Southease (if coming by car, please don't park on the village green and spoil the view for everyone) and go for Alfriston. A long walk there and back, say 14 miles, I am not sure, anyway, it has super views towards the sea and the Weald and there only two 'big' climbs there and back.

And finally...yet another view of Cuckmere Haven near Seaford.

Pointe du Millier

Just another wonderful spot on the Cap Sizun (note, this link on Cap Sizun has video) where you can enjoy walks with spectacular views away from hordes of tourists. The sea, Turquoise and Indigo blue, runs away to the horizon from the edge of the cliff edges. Small beaches appear at low tide enticing a dice with death to reach them. In August all this is topped with pink flowering heather, edged by soft rounded green fields and pine. So many of these views have not changed in a hundred years. giving you a mysterious experience feeling of times past.

Sitting on a rounded clump of rocks projecting out above the sea below I quickly sketched what is quite literately a Lighthouse. At home I have a book with a drawing of it, so I tried to find the exact place it was drawn from. And to my surprise, when I got home, it proved to be the identical spot.

The Cap Sizun coastline

I Have been a bit busy over the last fortnight, so have not had a chance to continue praising the Cap Sizun and Cornouaille (Finistère).

What appeals to me about Cap Sizun is, it that is largely free of the tourist tat we suffer from in England. There are miles of un-spoilt coastline. The more rugged north coast overlooks the Baie de Douarnenez and resembles Cornwall. You can also enjoy the coastal paths with only an occasional human encounter along the way, even in August.

This year I thought it would a good idea to keep a pocket sketchbook as a visual diary of my outings. I did take a camera for reference but the sketchbook was more fun. Why did I not think of that before! It was quickly filled with ‘snap shot drawings’ mostly executed in minutes, even whilst walking. I really can recommend this activity. It was great fun and I hope it has improved my drawing. Fast sketching forces you to be more decisive and selective. If the line was wrong, you either search for the correct line or start again…no time for erasing.

One thing I learnt using my sketchbook is that vast expanses of rocky coast can be difficult to fit on the page of a pocket sketchbook. The sketches here show views from the Pointe du Van and one of two Fountains that are on the pointe.

Baie d'Audierne in Finistère, (Gwaien in Breton) summer 09

I have just spent a few precious days in a friend’s house, one of many spent enjoying the Baie d'Audierne and Cap Sizun. This is a very special area and always gives my batteries a fast charge.

Now, I am sorry but I can't help it, the following reads very like copy for a promotional brochure. So what, it really is a great place to visit.

Very like Cornwall, the sea surrounds it, and the light you experience is truly breathtaking. Blue light is reflected everywhere, and when the sun shines, the sea is emerald and indigo with lines of startling white as the sea laps the rocky cliffs to the north, and the sand and rocky beaches in the south. Every where there are marvellous seascapes. I once took a picture on January the first and such is the brilliance of the light you would think it was July.

The Sizun area is also peppered with beautiful cottages and small stone chapels, often in quiet places well away from the road. Every where you turn there are subjects crying out to be recorded with paint, pencil or cameras.

Whilst I was there, a first for me, I tried to use a sketchbook in place of a camera wherever possible, recording the many places we visited. Standing, sitting at a bar, even whilst walking, I tried my best making very fast rough sketches without tripping over. I have to say it was fun, though the short stay was far too brief and I was unable to do very little detailed work. Still, I have my sketchbook and some photos to help me work on project during the winter.

Trying to make waves.

I haven’t had much spare time over the last few days to practice drawing waves. We have had family from France staying which requires, eating, drinking, site seeing and more.

I had nothing to put on this blog os I spent just 20 minutes sketching the drawings on this page, they were made using some digital pics I took last last summer. I am quite happy with the result. I drew fast trying to keep the line free easy..it was fun. It might not be quite right, but it is a good start. I am not sure if I took it to the next stage it would look more like water or not, we shall see. I actually doubt it because if I try to hard, my drawing will loose it's freshness. And I won't enjoy doing it either.

So I must stick to my aim to draw free and easy outlines of sea and rocks. And also have a go at putting in a bit of colour with a brush on the spot. Being ‘on the spot’ should help generate some energy and enthusiasm.

Coping with the wind so close to the sea can be a problem. Last summer was wet on most days of my stay in Brittany and this year seems to be going the same direction. Drawing in the rain and sea spray is not easy, graphite and water don’t seem to mix that well.

Learning how to draw water

On my holiday I hope to be doing some sketches on a rocky coastline and perhaps calm water up muddy creaks, I want to be able to indicate moving and still water.

It was over a year ago now that I last made sketches with sea and rocks as a key feature, so I need to get in some practice.

I reckon if you want to be able to easily suggest water whilst sketching plein-air, you need to have a selection of patterns up your sleeve. So that is what I aim to work out, patterns to me help suggest water.

Seawater has various motions, calm, choppy, rough and very rough. So to put things down on paper in situ fast, I will need to learn to use a set of random patterns to help give the effect of water as I see it. With inlets or creaks, water is often generally calm. When vegetation is close to the waters edge it creates reflections of light and dark. So use of white space can be key to achieving a suitable result. White space sounds easy. But to some, use of white space doesn’t seem to come naturally, and I am in that category. So like anything in life, it will take some practice to get better at it.

So far, I have had a few stabs at water and although only from Photo’s I feel I am getting somewhere. The sample here (Le Goyen à Pont-Croix) is far too tight and overworked, which is not really what I am good at. I prefer to keep my sketches as free and energetic as possible and I am sure the immediacy of sketching plein-air will help.

How do I draw waves crashing onto rocks? Use white paper to suggest the foaming sea. I am not going to worry too much about this, just aim to keep the line free like water.

So, to sum up, something to think about when drawing. One: I must let my line run free and flow just like water. Two: Work out some patterns to suggest water in different situations. Three: For rough sea I can make my lines stronger with stabbing, expressive marks, using the white of the paper to suggest a foaming sea crashing onto the rocks. It all sounds so easy!

Cornouaille

Last year we spent two weeks in Brittany with 5 days in a friend’s home with wonderful views overlooking the Baie D'Audierne. Like so many places in the west facing the Atlantic, the Baie D'Audierne has wonderful light. I have a picture taken on January the first and it is difficult to tell it wasn't taken in August; such is the brilliance of the light reflecting off the sea.

The coastline is very varied there, plenty of rocks, sand, exposed rugged cliffs and clear blue water. Super for walking. Last summer though the weather was not too good with grey days, rain, showers or drizzle. Desperate, I even tried to draw in the rain! not too successful. Soggy cockled paper and pencil sliding across the pages put a stop to my fun.

Above are a couple sketches from last year, executed between showers (Top, looking west towards Audierne and the bottom, Pors Poulhan harbour). This year I am keen to add some colour. I will have to practice to get into 'rocks and sea mode'. It would be great to learn how to portray the sea and water successfully.

Last year I bought two books by Denis Clavreul, they are full of clever but simple sketches and watercolours that seem to project effortlessly the colours and atmosphere of this beautiful area. These books provide me with plenty of food for thought. If I can produce anything even starting to approach Clavreul's ability to capture the feel and colour of the place, I know I will come away with a real sense of achievement.

Does everyone who draws find it very demanding?

The past 2 weeks have been so hot I have been unable to get out much to have a go at drawing landscapes so I have stuck to still life, not very well thought out subject matter, just a few items as they are around the house.

Is it just me or does everyone who draws find it very demanding? I enjoy what I call scribbly sketches, like William Gillies flowing drawings. In the bottom image here I have tried to be accurate, but accurate drawing is tough. I think maybe I get bored or frustrated trying to be accurate, knowing in my mind that I will never draw accurately enough to satisfy myself, so why try, just do what I enjoy.

When I am drawing I get the feeling my brain is busy telling me, "Your drawing is accurate, carry on" as if to shield me from the real truth at that moment in time. And when I come back in an hour or two, perhaps the next day, all the obvious errors look straight back at me.

One way around the problem of errors is to look at your work in a mirror, turn it upside down or take a snap with digital camera and look at it smaller. As if by magic, errors are revealed. But then, how do you fix them? I just go away and come back later, rubber in hand. I then try to fix these errors but the drawing becomes more and more over worked. I admire these people who are able or practiced enough to draw accurately and at the same time keep it fresh. The funny thing is, although I admire accurate drawing from a technical point of view, I do not get the same pleasure from it as a lively energetic sketch.

Another thing I have problems with is fitting the drawing on the paper. I stare at a landscape and think, let's plan this out, put down a rough outline, but so often I don't. Instead, I just say to myself I will start here and that should allow for the highest point and the width. But no matter how hard I think this through, without putting down a clear outline first, I nearly always run out of paper. So either I start again, or continue and put up with my composition running off the edge.

The thing is I don’t want to be restricted by the edges of the paper. I don't want to rough out the drawing to make sure it fits, I didn't do this when I was a kid, I just started and drew, so why should I start now! So what if it doesn't fit the paper! Unlike looking through a camera lens, when you see things with your own eyes (if you enjoy fairly normal vision without glasses that is), you never have the feeling of a frame restricting your view.

Bonnard knew how to handle the problem of size. He used to pin an oversized piece of canvas on a wall and then paint. He never wanted the format of a prepared canvas to dictate the layout of his painting.

To sum up, it seems to me I have 3 types of drawing activity. 1. Accurate drawing (I don't enjoy much). 2. Light careful sketch (enjoyable but not always). 3. Energetic scribble (I really enjoy the freedom with less worries about inaccuracy). So, if I struggle or am just too lazy to draw accurately, and if I want to enjoy drawing, it has to be a rough 'Energetic scribbly' sketch keeping my line free, almost painterly.

With a landscape I try to let my sketches and their lines project the energy I feel for the subject, the excitement I feel when looking at objects and their juxtaposition. I am most comfortable when my line work in the sketch seems to be searching for the right line or proportion. Only then is it fun to draw.

When lines in a drawing are free and sketchy, it hides errors, and where errors are clear to see you accept them more readily. And because the drawing is vigorous and the line work generous, you don't just look at it, you read it, the drawing taking your eyes on a journey following the lines.

Another Sunday in Sussex and

drawing with a biro!

My wife and I had planned to try walking to Firle and Alfriston from Southease. Given the stifling heat we felt a long walk up and down hills was not a good idea. So, we settled for Seaford and Cuckmere Haven in the hope of a sea breeze. Only a slight hill to warm us up and then the rest is flat along the river. I think even the wild life was laid low in the heat as wild activity seemed less than normal. Anyway, it was very sticky. Luckily a slight breeze running along the Cuckmere River valley helped keep us cool. As did a pint of Harvey's bitter along the way.

My plan was to sketch. Well, to sketch something at least. However, I had a slight glitch, an age thing called being absent-minded. I had left my tin of pencils back in the car! All I could find in my bag was an old cracked biro. So I attempted in the heat to quickly sketch something (as shown above) so that at least I could say I had tried.

The light at Cuckmere can be mesmerizing and it was just so clear for such a humid day! The sea was a dark blue, with the tide coming back up the river, the water was a pale turquoise. The white cliffs in such conditions take on an extra dimension, their bright white faces reflecting onto a mirror of calm sea. On the horizon a strange strip of pale yellow.

And to think, last Sunday my sketching was cut short by a cold breeze!

Ricard water jug

Back home I have this old French cafe 'Ricard' water jug and heavy rimmed tumblers. The shape of the jug fascinates me; I love the warm earthy colour and find it very sculptural. I would love to produce a giant version. Though when I try drawing it, for some reason from certain angles, no matter how hard I try and produce a seemingly accurate result, it just never looks quite believable. The drawing above shows the viewpoint that I find the easiest to capture. I will try again and try harder.

Firle Beacon to Alfriston
This sketch I completed last year, shows a view on the South Downs towards Alfriston where I hope to go walking this weekend, weather permitting (well, I suppose I am largely a fair weather walker). Maybe if I was feeling brave, I could start from Southease. That would be too far! Going might be OK but I would never make it back on foot.

When I stand on Firle Beacon looking over to Lewis or over to Seaford Head, I feel certain this must be the highest point for miles, if not the whole of the South Downs. But in fact, Ditchling Beacon or Buster Hill on the downs in Hampshire (both at 900ft) win. Anyway, I reckon you would find it very difficult to show me a better view anywhere in the south east.

On a walk, I like to hear the noise of the wind, the wildness and not traffic. Even at a wonderful spot like this you are never far from the maddening crowd. I am affraid I am not a lover of mountain bikes though, and now at times I feel there are just too many. They are so often reckless, fun for them, but they rarely give you sufficient warning of approach. I am not a fan, but yes, I am a cynic I guess. So what, let the bikers rush past me in a sweat missing the chance to enjoy small things. As you walk at a slow and considered pace, you don't miss the rare wild flowers, the butterfies on the path side and the chance to say hello to other walkers. I have walked the downs for over 30 years. It is far busier now, I can't be selfish I suppose and have to admit it is a good thing to see this open space being used so much for pleasure.

Hmm, Mountain bikes, Crazy! I never remember seeing even one cyclist on the downs in the seventies. Maybe the odd kid on a chopper! I like my peace so that makes me an old fart. Well, I can live with that.

The 7 sisters, I just can't keep away

When you arrive down at Cuckmere Haven on the south side of the river looking east, for some reason the cliffs don't look that imposing (well, not to me at any rate). But if you cross the river at low tide, you then come face to face with a sheer cliff face, now it is an entirely different aspect. An immense vertical wall of chalk that makes you feel insignificant.

So, after crossing the river and facing to the east, the first Sister is Haven Brow, then Short Brow, Rough Brow, Brass Point, Flat Hill, Baily's Hill, and Went Hill Brow.

From the top of the cliffs the views are breath taking, if you still have any left after the climb. On this part of the coast your eyes are taken on a trip you can't resist, along the very edge of the cliffs all the way to the horizon. At anytime of the day the light here can be astonishing. When the sun shines on the cliffs in the evening, or late afternoon in the winter months, the Sisters in their white chalk are often so bright they will leave you squint-eyed.

The sketch

The sketch here looks eastwards, and is drawn from a low view point looking towards Belle Tout Lighthouse. The brave walkers on the top of Haven Brow appear as tiny dots. I have cheated a little and moved some wild flowers in to help add scale and interest to the low angle. Lying low helps keep me out of the strong sea breeze which often streams relentlessly inland.

Still thinking

Sunday in Southease, what a glorious June day. I am still having enjoyment just thinking about it.

Looking down from the church over the green it was reminiscent of days gone past. Simple pleasures, the reality of a modern hectic world and its problems were no where to be seen. People too busy making up their minds what jumble to buy. Which second hand book? Perhaps a second hand suitcase? Do I have tea, or homemade ginger beer or lemonade, and why not cake as well!

Sunday

A day to remember spent in the hamlet of Southease, a beautiful secret, that lies nestling in the Sussex downs. Sunday was the day the locals of Southease chose to help raise money to mend the church. And what a glorious day. Visitors were invited to visit 6 enchanting gardens and then take tea on the village green.

Looking down over the green, the church stands clad in scaffolding, tucked away in the cool shadow of trees now full of summer growth.

The crayon sketch depicts this sunny day with a fresh sea breeze. The village green is under preparation for opening at 2pm.

Mid June...

Like so many of us, I just wonder where does time go? Is it like nature? Watch it emerge lush, and you are excited. And then all too so soon it fades away again. I thought it was still spring, but summer is here and I hope it lingers longer than last year when as soon as it arrived it disappeared again.

This sketch was done on a patio in Brittany. It was a cold but bright spring morning.

Little pots with last years surviving growth still settled in corners of the garden looking neglected, and in disarray, as if waiting. But despite all, still able and willing to provide their sensory pleasure and visual harmony all over again for another summer.

Well, May is out...

...and another year of viewing art at Brighton Open Houses is over. Now I will have to make do with spring watch on BBC.

May Bank holiday I spent in Wales. On Monday I had the luck to view a great art exhibition in Cardiff Museum called, "Sisley in England and Wales"... After the wonderful weather on Sunday, Monday was a shock, grey skies again! My friend had a brain wave and suggested the exhibition idea, and like lots of things in Wales it is free, so I was game. The museum is in a lovely setting and the building itself is as good as anything you find in London, but without the crowds. It is not just art, there is plenty more to see.

So this was my chance to view 17 wonderful items of work, including some sketches by Sisley. The exhibition (not large but well worth the visit) charters Sisley's visit to Wales, Penarth and the Gower in 1897. In fact, Sisley was married in Cardiff whilst he was there.

Artists Open Houses in Brighton

Well it is nearly May now, so that makes me excited about visiting some artists open houses in Brighton. If you don’t know about this event then get on to a web site and find out more.

Artists Open Houses run along side The Brighton Festival and is Brighton’s artistic community’s own art event, where local homeowners throw open their doors to the general public every weekend during May.

Now I consider this a brave thing, imagine having loads of strangers tramping through your pad in all weathers! If you are shy, like me or have white carpets, it must be a nightmare. But loads of artistic homeowners do it and it brings so much pleasure to the many visitors.

What is unique, is that you rarely get the chance to see a wide range of art in normal home surroundings. And even if you are not interested in the art, just peeking in some strange house can be a real eye opener. Rows of terraced cottages all the same in a row, but completely different inside. Some posh interiors, some not so posh, but mostly created with amazing creativity and imagination.

So give it try. There is so much to see. From abstract art, figurative art, some plain crazy art, sculpture, pottery and jewellery... Something for everyone, even tea and cakes, really making this a number one not-to-miss event. Find out more, visit... http://www.aoh.org.uk

My top tip is: to get off to a good start, try the Five Ways Artists (easy parking in several streets)... http://www.fivewaysartists.com

Easter break in France

Having recently visited Monet’s house and gardens at Giverny. I can’t get over what a special place it is.

The Garden is full of colour and scents as Monet liked. The street outside his house must always be full of tourists, not too many to spoil it in March.

Having gone so early in the season I found the atmosphere restful. I might change my mind if I went again in the summer. The local Church where Monet is buried is currently undergoing restoration. The workmanship is breathtaking. Every last detail is so perfectly executed.

Having read a little about the Impressionists. I find so many books talk about the tecniques used but never really get down to the bottom of the real reasons why the new art wave at that time developed the way it did.

One thing so often forgotten is the dramatic change made to the raw materials available at the time and of course the influence of photography.